Health Care For Birds
General Information
Birds are the fastest growing pet group in the country. They are a very diverse group, including everything from finches to macaws. Many of these species have unique characteristics and problems, but in many ways are very similar. This article is designed to familiarize the bird owner with some basic principles of good care for the majority of pet birds.
Diet
Like any animal, an effective diet is required to keep a bird healthy and happy in your home. Malnutrition is the number one cause of illness seen in
birds. A poor diet is an underlying cause for a birds'
inability to fight infections, parasites and internal
problems.
A balanced diet for a Psittacine (parrot
family) bird consists of a variety of food groups. A
commercial seed diet must make up about _ of the total
daily intake, that can also include dry dog foods. The
"total" seed diet in the store are really just
seed mixture. If they are labeled as "vitamin
enriched," the vitamins have been added to the
outside of the seed hulls and are therefore not available
to the bird.
Two-thirds of the diet must consist of
fresh food from the four food groups.
Fruit has a large water content and
therefore is not a good source of calories. Fruit must be
fed clean and fresh, and must be removed from the cage
after a few hours, especially during the summer heat.
Recommend feeding two to three times a week. WARNING:
Avocado has a toxin in the pit, DO NOT FEED TO YOUR BIRD.
Vegetables are an excellent source of
vitamins and minerals. Carrots have Vitamin A, broccoli
has calcium. Iceberg lettuce has no calories and
must not be fed. Frozen mixed vegetables can be
thawed and fed daily.
Dairy products are good sources of protein
and calcium, such as cottage cheese, yogurt.
Birds have taste buds and appreciate a
variety of foods including cooked meat, peanut butter,
whole wheat bread, eggs (cooked), cereals, casseroles and
sauces. Try to limit caffeine and particularly chocolate
products.
Also, available for birds are pelleted
foods which are easy to use and less messy than seed.
They also contain combined ingredients offering a better
mixture of nutrients. Pellets must also be fed in
combination with fruits and vegetables. Several birds
that are use to eating seeds resist changing to pellets.
You can try mixing the pellets with seeds and gradually
increase the amount of pellets daily. Another way is to
limit the seeds to 10 minutes a day, but leave the
pellets in all the time. Some birds will take up to
several months to fully accept new foods.
Fresh water must be changed daily. Calcium
is required by your bird and must be provided by a
cuttlebone, soft side must face into the cage, mineral
block or oyster shell.
Vitamins. Avian vitamin drops such
as "Avitron" or powdered avian vitamins such as
"Avia," "Super Preen" or
"Vivil3" can be added to fruit, greens or moist
table food--any food that your bird eats totally. Make
sure the vitamins you use contain Vitamin D-3 as birds
cannot synthesize their own. DO NOT use vitamins that are
added to the water--this is not an effective way
to give a bird vitamins.
Grit. Normal psittacines
(parakeets, cockatiels, Amazons) shell their seeds before
eating them, therefore the need for grit is questionable.
It has been suggested that an average bird at the most
needs 10 to 12 granules of grit two to four times a year.
Especially in the new bird, I do not recommend the use of
grit as supplement as a nervous bird may overeat it and
become impacted.
Cage Location And Care
Psittacine birds' cages can be kept in a
busy part of your home, as they are very sociable and
thrive on attention. However, other types may need more
security or privacy, especially when first brought home
and until they learn to know and trust you. Often a nest
box will provide this needed privacy for finches, home
birds and other flighty birds.
The cages that are purchased in the United
States are usually constructed of non-toxic materials. Be
aware that other countries (such as Mexico) may use
paints on the cages that may contain lead. If there is
any doubt, it may be best to buy a wrought iron cage that
has not been painted. If you have a doubtful cage,
sandblasting can be used to remove the paint.
The temperature can range from 65-95
degrees Fahrenheit, although most birds will do well at
slightly higher or lower temperatures if the change
occurs gradually. Changes in temperature and direct
drafts, such as a down draft coolers, must be avoided, as
they can stress your pets and therefore predispose them
to illness. If it is too cold, your bird will fluff its
feathers to trap warm air near its body. Birds will
appear very sleek and hold their wings away from their
body, if they are too hot. Beware of keeping a bird in
direct sunlight in the summer as it may become overheated
very quickly. If a bird is fluffing its feathers and
appears drowsy, it may be sick. It is a good idea to
raise the temperature of the cage to 85-90 degrees
Fahrenheit unit a veterinarian can be seen. This can be
done by wrapping ¾ of a small cage in a towel and then
placing the cage on a heating pad.
Having a thermometer near the cage will
help you monitor temperature. Allowing a bird to have
various temperatures within his cage will allow him to
seek the most comfortable place for himself.
A bird must be given 10-12 hours of sleep
nightly. If necessary covering the cage will allow it to
sleep uninterrupted.
Lining the bottom of the cage with paper
towels will allow you to easily monitor the droppings
from your bird. Most birds will pass 20-30 stools daily,
if they are passing less they may be ill. The consistency
must also be watched for signs of increased urine
production or diarrhea. Cages must be cleaned on a daily
basis.
Perches must be provided that offer
varying sizes to exercise the birds feet. Do not
use sandpaper covered perches, they can cause injury to
the feet. Branches of non-toxic trees such as fruit,
citrus or eucalyptus work well.
Exercise
Several tame birds enjoy
the freedom to exercise outside of their cages. Hazards
such as cats, open doors, ceiling fans or open fire
grates must be checked before letting the bird out of its
cage. They don't know any better and depend on you for
their safety. Also keep in mind that psittacines are very
curious and love to chew--several house plants are toxic
and lead may be present in or on many decorative
knick-knacks. It is best to allow them exercise only when
properly supervised.
Respiratory Infections
Respiration
diseases are frequently seen in pet birds. These may vary
in severity from an occasional sneeze to a severe air sac
infection. Early signs may be treated by warming the
environment to 89-90 degrees Fahrenheit and covering the
cage at night for 12 hours to ensure plenty of rest.
However, if a nasal discharge develops, which may be
noted as a staining of the feathers above the nostrils,
the bird must be seen by a veterinarian. Other more
serious signs are fluffed feathers, drowsiness, open
mouth breathing and difficulty in breathing as noted by a
dipping of the tail with each breath.
Egg Laying
Female birds may lay eggs whether or not
there is a male present. Egg laying increases the need
for calcium, vitamin A, fats, proteins and other
nutrients. Supplemental calcium is necessary and can be
provided in the form of mineral blocks, oyster shells or
liquid available through your veterinarian. The other
nutrients can be provided within the balanced diet and
vitamin supplementation. In general, if there is a single
female it is best to leave the eggs with her as a
"signal" to quit laying more. The only
"for sure" way to stop her from laying eggs is
to essentially "spay" the bird.
A problem to be aware of with the egg
laying female is the possibility of egg
"binding" or the inability to pass the egg.
Signs to watch for include disease signs mentioned
earlier, staying at the bottom of the cage, straining and
possible long history of egg laying. The bird needs to be
seen immediately for the best change of survival.
Feather Picking
This behavior in
birds is a very frustrating problem. Often the cause can
never be determined. In cockatiels internal parasites are
frequent problems and cause allergic reactions in the
skin resulting in picking by the bird. Other causes
include skin infections and psychological upsets due
mainly to stress or boredom.
Lice. These insects are not
a common problem in caged birds, however parakeets are
seen frequently with crusty lesions on the beak and legs
caused by the scaly face mite. Treatment by a
veterinarian is required.
Multiple Birds in the Same Home
Many people enjoy birds as companions so
much they frequently acquire more than one. When bringing
a new bird into the home, it is necessary to separate him
from your other birds by placing him in another room for
at least 30 days to watch for signs of illness. it is
also recommended that all new birds have a physical check
up and tests such as fecal exam for parasites,
Psittacosis test for Chlamydial infection and blood tests
for internal problems.
NOTE: Psittacosis is a bacterial
infection caused by Chlamydia psittaci. It can show up as
an upper respiratory illness or a bird "just not
feeling good." It can be dormant in the bird for up
to several years and expresses itself during periods of
stress. This disease can be transmitted to people so good
sanitation of your bird environment is recommended. This
is a treatable disease, so when in doubt have your bird
tested and treated.
